Пиле пее в среде море,
В среде море, на бел камен.
Хем ми пее, хем казува:
"Пу турце ще мор да стане
Пу христиене плен да плени,
Чи ми нема Мумчил юнак,
Да разтвори Буру-града,
Буру-града, чорквицана,
Да навлезот христиеане,
Да ги турци не пленюват…"
folk song,
recorded by Stoyu Shishkov
Ustovo village, 1890
It is the summer of 2024. Almost 700 years have passed since the Rhodope ruler Momchil the hero lived in these lands, who is sung about in this folk song, with which I decided to begin our next extraordinary walk - a historical story about those long-gone and distant, so turbulent times, immediately before the end of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom.
I am traveling to Momchilova Fortress, which rises on a peak in the Gradishteto area in the Middle Rhodopes - between the villages of Gradat (to the north) and Podvis (to the south).
Until now, I knew almost nothing about Momchil Voivode, about the period during which he ruled this region, about the incredible panoramic view from the Momchil Fortress and about the village called Gradat. Now it's time for me to learn more about this memorable chapter in Bulgarian history, and now I will share what I've learned with you.
The 14th century was a fateful one in the history of the Balkan Peninsula. Political unrest and decline, accompanied by feudal separatism, civil war and endless struggles for the Byzantine throne, political impotence and cultural brilliance for the Bulgarian state, the flourishing of its neighboring Serbian kingdom and the entry of the Ottoman invaders into the Balkans were all events that marked the first half of the century.
Momchil Voivode is one of the most interesting personalities during this turbulent period in the history of the Balkan peoples.
About Momchil Voivode
Momchil Voivode or Momchil Junak, born around 1305, was a Bulgarian feudal ruler in the Rhodope Mountains and in White Sea Thrace. He was of Bulgarian origin. For some time he was in Byzantine service, later in Serbian, and subsequently tried to establish himself as an independent ruler. He fought to protect the local population from the Turks and Byzantines. He became famous for his military exploits - the famous Vlach-Bulgarian documents glorify him as the invincible and skilled in war Momchil, a man ...whose courage never left him.
Initially, he was a honsar or robber. He formed a detachment in the border region of Bulgaria in the Srednogorie, for which he was persecuted by the authorities and had serious disagreements with his relatives, so much so that around 1335 he crossed over to neighboring Byzantium and entered the service of Emperor Andronicus III Palaiologos (1325–1341) as a stratiot. For his service, he received a pronia.
Коня ковит Момчула войвода,
На вечер ми коня подковаат,
На утринна кон се обосуват.
Тогаз казва Момчулица млада:
– А стопане, Момчула войвода!
Ке те прашам, право да му кажиш:
К вечерина коня подкуваваш,
На утринна кон се обосуват?
Folk song,
recorded by the Miladinovi brothers,
Struga village, 1861
A young hero amazes his contemporaries with his extraordinary physical qualities!
He is described as being so tall and so strong that he seems to be the size of two people. It is said that everyone was amazed by his majestic appearance and no one dared to approach him, and the Turkish poet Enveri wrote about him that he resembled a minaret!
Later, as a Serbian military leader under King Stefan Dušan, Momchil Voivode formed a band of 2,000 people - Bulgarians and Serbs, attracted by his charismatic personality. According to Enveri, he was famous in the Serbian country. He ruled, according to local legend, as a vassal in Pirot and the surrounding Bulgarian region. The medieval Pirot Castle is still marked on maps today as a historical monument "Momchil's Town".
After the death of Emperor Andronicus III Palaiologos on 15 June 1341, a severe civil war broke out in Byzantium. The opposing camps were the regents of the minor heir John V Palaiologos – on the one hand – his mother Anna of Savoy and the Grand Duke Alexios Apokaucos, and on the other hand, John Cantacuzenus, who had declared himself emperor in Dimotica.
In 1343, Momcilus, together with his entire retinue, was attracted by the Grand Domestic John VI Cantacuzenus*, who had proclaimed himself emperor, as an ally in the Civil War in Byzantium. Cantacuzenus, whom Momcilus probably met in Serbia, wrote that when he was advancing with his troops towards Thessaloniki, Momcilus unexpectedly came to their camp at the head of a small army and placed himself at his service.
*John Kantakouzenos (c. 1295 to 1383) was a Byzantine emperor (in the period from 1341 to 1354), a politician and writer. He ended his life as a monk. He wrote "History of John Kantakouzenos in 4 books". The work of the contemporary and participant in the turbulent events of the Balkans in the 14th century is a valuable source containing information about Bulgarian history and about Momchil the hero.
When John Kantakouzenos and his ally, the Smyrnaean emir Umur, were besieging the fortress "Periteorion" on the Aegean coast, residents of the Bulgarian fortresses "St. Irene" and "Povisd" in the Merope region came to them. They went over to his side and asked the emperor to appoint them a governor.
John Kantakouzenos defined Momchil as such an emperor, because he was their compatriot and did not lack courage and bravery in battles.
From the local population in the area under his rule, Momchil the voivode managed to gather more than 300 horsemen and 5,000 infantry. With this army, Momchil joined the Byzantine civil war and began to conquer the fortresses under the rule of the Constantinople government.
…When the emperor was besieging Periteorion and prepared to attack it with ladders and machines, the fortresses of St. Irene and Povisd in the area of Merope went over to his side…
Considering who to appoint as their commander, (the emperor) decided that he should entrust the power over them to Momchil, not only because they were of the same tribe, but also because he did not lack courage and bravery in battles and was very experienced in plundering and robbery. This Momcilus was a Mysian (Bulgarian) by birth, but due to plunder and robbery he fled from there and went to the Romans, where he was enrolled by the emperor in the list of stratiotes. Since he always took pleasure in plundering and ravaging Moesia a lot, because he knew the places, he was often advised by the governors of the border regions between the Mysians and the Romans not to start a war and not to commit such devastation, because they were in contractual relations.
… And Momcilus rose and became great because of the civil war among the Romans and, considering himself strong enough to form his own kingdom, he simultaneously rejected the emperor Cantacuzenus and the empress Anna (of Savoy - mother of the minor Byzantine emperor John V Palaeologus), although he was awarded the title of despot by her. He fought simultaneously with both sides and subdued cities and villages…
He had gathered nearly four thousand horsemen, all selected for their bravery, and seemed to be invincible due to his bravery and the natural defenses of the places he ruled
… And Momchil already had a large army and had created his own kingdom. He attacked and captured Xanthi, controlled all the fortresses in Merope and reached as far as Mora… he gathered as many troops as he had and set out himself to fight both the Romans and the barbarians at the same time.
"History of John Kantakouzenos",
14th century
This is how Momchil the hero obtained possession of the two fortresses in the Rhodopes – "Povisd" (known today as Momchil's fortress) and "Saint Irene" (currently with an unknown location).
At one point, Momchil the hero felt strong enough, had enough troops, and decided that he was completely ready to pursue an independent policy. A secret embassy was sent to him from Empress Anna of Savoy, who, in addition to generous gifts, promised him the title of despot if he renounced his alliance with John Kantakouzenos.
In June 1344, Momchil attacked the city of Abdera, where the ships of the Seljuk Turks were anchored, and burned three of them. Angered, the Turks abandoned the prepared campaign to Heraclea and, together with part of Kantakouzenos' army, devastated Momchil's possessions. The voivode, however, was prepared for this and hid his men in the fortresses and then headed to Periteorion to meet the detachment returning from the plunder. At the ruins of the old city of Mosinopolis, he almost killed the emperor himself, who barely escaped. After this action, as a sign of gratitude, Empress Anna of Savoy honored him with the title of despot, which is one of the highest in the ranking table of Byzantium and the other countries in Southeast Europe.
For his part, Emperor John Kantakouzenos, feeling difficulties due to the war, decided to end the enmity with Momchil and offered him peace. In addition, he honored him with the title of sebastokrator, which was given to close relatives of the emperor himself.
In this way, Momchil found himself with two very high titles, given to him by both warring Byzantine emperors.
Thus began Momchil's rule as a de facto independent Rhodope ruler. According to Kantakouzenos, he already had a large army and had created his own kingdom. In the second half of 1344, the voivode started a war against both groups with the aim of territorial expansion of his domain.
The Rhodope ruler expanded his kingdom by capturing the fortress city of Xanthi. Momchil chose as his residence the town of Xanthi, at the foot of the Ruyan Mountain, which became known as Tsarevo. Another important settlement in his possessions was the strong fortress "Peritor" (Buru-grad) on the northern shore of the Bistonis lagoon (today Lake Burugyol).
Momchilova Fortress
The Momchilova Fortress is located in close proximity to the route of the eastern Trans-Rhodopes road, which connected the Upper Thracian Plain with the capital city of Philippopolis and the Aegean coast. Its route runs along the ridge of Radyuva Mountain and passes along the western hill adjacent to the fortress.
The Momchilov Fortress was built during the reign of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I (527 - 565) as part of a system of fortresses in the European territory of the empire against barbarian invasions from the north.
Also known as the "Podvis" fortress, Momchilovat Tvrddina is located in the Gradishteto area - between the villages of Gradat (to the north) and Podvis (to the south).
Today I arrive at the foot of the fortress and park in the parking lot.
Since it is a weekday, there are not many visitors – only two cars occupy space on the relatively small space designated for this purpose.
Appropriately equipped – with high and comfortable hiking shoes and comfortable hiking clothes, with water in my backpack, I head to the Information Center, located next to the parking lot, to buy an entrance ticket.
The hosts of this wonderful place pleasantly surprised me with a detailed and informative talk, after which they most politely explained to me where to go, what to watch out for on the way to the fortress, and where I could rest.
The path in its initial phase is easy, wide and pleasant.
From the east, the peak Podvis is crossed, where the ruins of the ancient fortress "Podvis" are visible from afar, by which name the small village located below the peak of the Black River itself is also called.
"From Vitosha to Rhodope. Travel notes in 1883"
Hristo Popkonstantinov
It is marked with signs-arrows pointing in the right direction and gradually becomes steeper as the slope increases.
Two hours east of Ustovo, along the Arda River, is the picturesque village of Podvis, about which there is a legend that there was an old town, and which Mr. Dr. Konstantin Irechek in Book X of the Sofia Periodical Magazine, in the article "Travel Notes for the Rhodopes" mentions that there was an old town of Povisdos, famous in Greek history.
"Life of the Bulgarians in the Middle Rhodopes"
Stoyu Shishkov
Plovdiv, 1886
This should not scare you, because there are a number of benches along it, on which you can sit and rest.
In the same area (the valley of Gorna Arda) falls Meropi, which is mentioned in the memoirs of Emperor Kantakouzenos. From his words it is understood that this name belonged first to a mountain and then to its surroundings. In it, he mentions, in addition to "other villages, not a few in number", two fortresses called "St. Irina" and "Povisdos". In the same mountain lived nomads "in unfortified villages", that is, nomadic shepherds Bulgars, compatriots of the hero Momchila, who was appointed by Kantakouzenos as the governor of Meropi...
That Povisdos may be, as I thought several years ago, the Greekized form of the Slavic name Podvis, which is often repeated among the names of fortified settlements. Later, I was surprised to hear that in Akhtchelebiyski, not far from the northeast of Smilyan, there is still the village of Podvis with old ruins, between the villages of Ustovo, Turan and Tikale, by the Chatak-dere river, which flows into Arda on the left side.
"Travel notes for Srednja Gora and the Rhodope Mountains"
Dr. Konstantin Irechek
Periodic magazine of the Bulgarian Literary Society in Sredets, 1884
You will soon arrive at the second gazebo (we passed the first gazebo at the very beginning of the eco-trail leading to the fortress). Next to it is a huge information board that tells about the glorious hero Momchil.
All around you, the fantastic panorama of the Rhodope Mountains towards the ocean opens up all the time, which will additionally leave you breathless!
In no more than half an hour you will have arrived at the third and final gazebo, located at the foot of Momchilova Fortress, where this information map with a diagram of possible detour routes awaits you. I highly recommend you walk both of them!
There are two options here:
The "Fortress" route, which will take you directly to the "Podvis" fortress;
The "Panoramic Trail" route, which will take you along the panoramic trail that circles the foot of the Momchilov Fortress along its entire eastern, southern and western sides.
You can easily walk them both sequentially, one after the other, and for this purpose you do not need to return here to this starting point.
"Fortress" route
I personally decided to continue directly to the fortress, leaving the detour panoramic route for later.
In the mid-14th century, Podvis was the first capital of the domain of sebastocrat Momchil in the Rhodope Mountains, which expanded all the way to the White Sea.
Today, part of the northern fortress wall has been uncovered, and many objects have been found, not only from the Middle Ages, but also from much earlier eras.
The defensive fortress wall is built of medium-sized quarry stones, bonded with white mortar. Its thickness varies from 1.2 meters to 1.3 meters. It was built directly on the bedrock, without additional cutting. In two places along the route, the wall breaks – one slightly to the southeast and one with an angle of 135 degrees to the south, five meters northwest of the end of the surveyed terrain. In the last five meters to the southeast and in a rocky section about ten meters east of the beginning of the excavation, the wall is completely destroyed, only the mortar base on the rock is visible.
In the enclosed space inside along the wall, there are no traces of stone buildings. Inside the fortress, the buildings were of wooden construction. About 7-8 meters to the right (west) of the entrance, a medieval blacksmith's workshop was discovered with dimensions that cannot be determined.
To protect the entrance area, a defensive fortress tower with external dimensions of 4 meters x 4.8 meters was built.
Its walls are thinner – 0.8 meters. The tower gate is from the west. Access to it is via a wide path running along the outer face of the northern wall, which, like the road cut into the rocks (from the east, south and west, which is taken along the other bypass panoramic route), was under fire from the pinnacles of the wall.
Momchilova Fortress had two periods of habitation - late antiquity (6th century) and medieval (11th - 14th centuries).
It was built during the reign of Emperor Justinian I (527–565), who undertook a grandiose military construction project throughout the Balkan Peninsula and created several fortifications – around the capital Constantinople, the Rhodope Mountains, the Stara Planina Mountains, and the Danube. Byzantine military garrisons were stationed in the fortresses, built to protect against barbarian raids from the north.
After a relatively short existence, the fortress was burned down during one of the Slavic invasions. The fortress defensive wall was completely destroyed. The fortress was rebuilt again around the 11th century. The now preserved curtain wall is homogeneous, there are no older foundations or inserted repairs.
In 1343, the fortress was handed over to the Rhodope ruler Momchil by the Byzantine emperor John Kantakouzenos and is mentioned under the name "Podvis" in his history. It was a real functioning fortification until the Ottoman invasion at the end of the 14th century, when it was burned down again, after which it was never rebuilt.
Studies
Interest in the archaeological site arose at the beginning of scientific research in the Rhodope Mountains at the end of the 19th century. The tradition passed down through the centuries that Gradishte near the village of Gradat was a fortress "Povisd", given into the possession of Momchil the hero in the distant 1343, overlaps with the visible remains of the walls and the northern defensive tower of the fortification, built on the cliffs towering above the valley of the Cherna River. In 1966, the entire site was declared an archaeological monument of culture of national importance.
The first genealogies visited the remains, recounted what they learned in their publications, but also ignited the interest of researchers such as Konstantin Irechek. In the following decades, the fortress inevitably became of interest to Rhodope local lore, which accumulated numerous facts and assumptions, songs, traditions and legends.
Archaeological research began in 1986 with the scientific supervisor Prof. Margarita Vaklinova from the National Institute of Archaeological and Archaeological Research at the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, organized by the Historical Museum – Smolyan. The best preserved today are the remains of the northern defensive fortress wall and the defensive fortress gate.
In 2007, the Regional Historical Museum "Stoyu Shishkov" – Smolyan conducted archaeological excavations with scientific supervisors Prof. Margarita Vaklinova and Nikolay Boyadzhiev under the project of the Smolyan Municipality "Momchilova Fortress – Myth and Reality".
Thracian rock sanctuary
It has been established that the fortification structure inherits a Thracian rock sanctuary from the end of the fifth millennium BC.
The Thracian tribes that inhabited the Middle Rhodopes located their sanctuaries on high, difficult-to-reach peaks. The Bessi are a priestly clan of the Thracian tribe of the Satri. On the territory of the Smolyan municipality, the sanctuaries are known - Kom Peak (village of Sivino), Popovitsa (village of Strazha), Sakarka (village of Sokolovtsi), Rasilitsa (village of Gorna Arda).
In ancient historical sources, the Rhodopes are called the "Sacred Mountain of the Thracians". The "Oracle of Dionysus", famous throughout the ancient world, is located there. Mysterious rituals were performed in the sanctuaries and the Thracians sought a connection with their deities.
Information Center "Momchilova Krepost"
It turns out that on the very peak with an altitude of 1215 meters above sea level there was a Thracian rock sanctuary. There is a small rocky platform with four openings in the rock. It is in direct visual contact with its neighboring sanctuaries on the peaks of Popovitsa between the villages of Strazha and Oreshets to the west, Kechskaya above Rudozem to the south and Gradishte above the village of Strashimir to the east.
The rock sanctuary functioned from the end of the Stone-Copper Age (the end of the fifth millennium BC) to the 3rd – 4th century AD. Several rock niches with a depth of up to 2.5 meters have been studied, in which ritual actions were performed. Interesting ceramic fragments of cult vessels from the late Bronze (16th – 12th century BC) and early Iron (12th – 6th century BC) eras have been found in them.
The cultural layer is thin – with a maximum thickness of only thirty centimeters in the eastern part near the fortress wall. The ceramics are predominantly Thracian – parts of a kantharos from the Late Bronze Age with decoration. Pieces of a cup from the Early Iron Age with incised lines are found, as well as fragments with relief bands from the entire first millennium BC, as well as parts of antique vessels. No stone carvings (such as altars, basins, chutes, etc.) are observed on the rock, which are the result of any human activity.
In the row of rock openings facing north, a new rock niche has been cleared. After its discovery and cleaning, its irregularly shaped opening is outlined, additionally shaped from the eastern part. Inside, the niche is filled with black soil, in which ceramic fragments with a not very high concentration are found. No bones have been found. The earliest ceramics can be dated to the late Neolithic – this is the initial date of the Thracian rock sanctuary. It was actively used until the 3rd – 4th centuries.
Medieval chapel
In 2008, the foundations of a medieval chapel, which functioned from the 13th to the 14th centuries, were discovered in the eastern part of the sanctuary. Its dating is aided by the discovery of a copper corrugated coin from the first half of the 13th century, found in close proximity to its northern wall.
Unfortunately, the chapel is badly damaged. Only the mortar base of the walls on the rock can be traced, and in places only one row of stones. The southern part of the apse has been preserved with a depth of about a meter. The thickness of the walls was 0.65 meters. Only the width of the chapel can be determined with accuracy - about four meters (2.7 meters internally), and considering the nature of the terrain, its length was about four and a half meters. The construction of the walls is made of thin quarry stones and rows of bricks, bonded with white mortar. Evidence of this is the numerous fragments of building ceramics (bricks) found in the embankment.
The chapel was plastered both inside and out. The outer plaster is coarser and coarser, the inner one is mixed with pieces of broken brick and is quite fine. Traces of paint are also visible on some fragments. The ceiling was shaped like a vault – some pieces of inner plaster have a curved surface. The floor was wooden. Several iron nails were found in a groove formed in the rock, which indicate that a beam was installed in the rock, onto which boards or planks for the floor were nailed.
What is interesting in this case is the inclusion within the chapel of the deep rock niche. It may have served as a storage place for some liquids and food, or even as a hiding place for church utensils, and even people in case of danger.
The panorama
From the highest point in the fortress grounds, a phenomenal 360-degree panorama opens up in the direction of Golyam Perelik Peak, Snezhanka TV Tower, Rozhen National Park, Svoboda Peak and others.
From here, you can also see the rocky crags on which the other two fortresses are located, part of the general defensive line of Justinian I against the barbarian raids from the north - the "Kaleto" fortress in the Turluka area, north of Smolyan, and the "Koznik" fortress, south of Rudozem.
In 1343, Momchil Voivode rebuilt the fortress, after which he inhabited it sporadically for a period of two years. The fortress played a very important strategic role in his plans for defending the territory from the north.
The medieval fortress was captured and burned during the Ottoman invasion of the Rhodope Mountains. Traces of this are the numerous arrowheads found in front of the entrance and the wall along it.
Momchilova Fortress has been declared an immovable cultural property (cultural monument) with the category of national importance - architectural and construction value and archaeological value from Antiquity and the Middle Ages.
After exploring the remains of the Momchilov Fortress and enjoying the majestic views unfolding in all directions, you can head to the next, no less exciting part of the adventure.
Once you are in the middle of the grounds of the Momchilov Fortress, head east. There you will find the steps shown in the photo above, leading to the panoramic bypass path built at the foot of the fortress.
"Panoramic Trail" Route
The "Panoramic Trail" route will take you along the panoramic trail, circling the foot of the Momchilov Fortress along its entire eastern, southern and western side.
This route can also be taken directly from the third gazebo, which I told you about earlier. Do you remember?
In the past, access to the fortress was via a road cut into the rock, up to 1.5 meters wide, which is still very well preserved today along the southern rocky slope of the peak.
The builders used a natural horizontal crack in the rock, which was expanded and further shaped.
The road starts from a saddle north of the summit, goes around the rocky ridge from the south and west and ends at the entrance from the north.
The route was monitored and defended along its entire length by the defenders of the fortress.
Look at these impressive and inaccessible rocks!
At one time, it was unthinkable for anyone to try to penetrate from here unnoticed. In places, the rocks even overhang the road carved beneath them – making access to the fortress from here completely impossible.
Some rocks even looked ominous. Here was this guardian of the fortress, which might have startled lost travelers and made them turn back in panic.
The Last Days of Momchil the Hero
In May 1345, the Smyrnaean emir Umur managed to eliminate the threat to his own emirate and reappeared in Thrace with an army of twenty thousand horsemen. From Dimotika, his troops, together with those of John Kantakouzenos, set out against the Rhodope ruler.
Momchil gathered his army of 5,000 men and retreated to Periteorion, which was under his rule, in order to fortify itself there and withstand the onslaught. But its inhabitants refused to open the gates to his army, allowing only his cousin Raiko with fifty soldiers inside.
On June 7, 1345, a battle broke out in front of the city walls. The forces were unequal and despite fierce resistance and bravery in battle, Momchil the hero fell dead, and the remaining living soldiers were captured.
The emperor showed great attention to Momchil's wife. He ordered that none of her property be taken from her, but that she should keep everything and either remain on Roman soil, if she wished, or leave for her homeland. For she was from Moesia. Since she preferred to return to her homeland, she went with all her property to the Mies.
"History of John Kantakouzenos"
14th century
At the foot of the ancient Gradishte by the Arda River, where the village of Podvis is still located today, to commemorate Momchil's fortress "Povisd", whose inhabitants chose Momchil as their leader, rises the Marina Mound. There Momchil's wife finds peace, the same one about whom historical records say that after the death of her heroic husband, she returned to her people.
Momchil in the Balkan epics
With his bravery and heroic death, Momchil Voivoda became famous throughout the Bulgarian ethnic territory and became a hero in many songs from the Bulgarian and Serbian epics, sung sometimes as "Tsar Momchil", sometimes as "Momchil, good hero", sometimes as "Momchil Voivoda".
In the popular consciousness, he became the personification of the ruler that the Bulgarians wanted to have - strong, brave and ready to fight the conquerors. The heroic songs, which glorify the exploits of feudal rulers from the 14th century, such as the songs about Momchil Voivoda and about Krali Marko, arose immediately after the fall of Bulgaria under the Ottoman yoke. They were sung for many centuries by the Bulgarian people as their hope and hope for deliverance from foreign oppression.
The cycle of songs about Momchil belongs to the earliest layer of the Bulgarian heroic epic. They first appeared in the Rhodope-White Sea region, where he mainly acted and ruled, and from there they spread to all South Slavic lands - Strandzha, Sofia, Pirot, Struga, Debar and reached as far as Herzegovina.
Researchers of the epic songs dedicated to Momchil the hero note one fact, namely, that almost nothing of his deeds is preserved in them, except for the battle and his death in front of the walls of the Peritor fortress. This battle was perceived by the Bulgarians, and later by the other Balkan peoples, as the first resistance to the Turkish invasion of the Balkans. Momchil the hero died in this unequal battle, which was perceived as a battle for faith, and this made a strong impression on all the South Slavic peoples who fell under Ottoman rule.
How to get to the town of Smolyan?
Smolyan is a city in Southern Bulgaria, located in the Perelik-Prespa section of the Western Rhodopes at a high average altitude of 1035 meters, making it the highest located regional city in Bulgaria.
It is located about ten kilometers from one of the largest winter resorts in Bulgaria - Pamporovo and Mechi Chal.
The city was formed on June 18, 1960, as a result of the unification of the cities of Smolyan and Ustovo, as well as the villages of Raykovo and Ezerovo.
It is the administrative center of Smolyan Municipality and Smolyan District.
Smolyan is also one of the longest cities in Bulgaria - nearly 25 kilometers, which is due to its linear development along the Cherna and Byala rivers.
Smolyan is located:
244 kilometers (about 3 hours and 36 minutes by car) from the capital
98 kilometers (about 2 hours and 03 minutes by car) from the city of Plovdiv
428 kilometers (about 5 hours and 56 minutes by car) from the city of Varna
321 kilometers (about 4 hours and 04 minutes by car) from the city of Burgas
How to get to Momchilova Fortress?
To the small parking lot, located north of Momchilova Krepost, leads an asphalted, but very narrow road, starting from the northwestern part of the village of Gradat.
This small, but so charming and picturesque village with the rather interesting name Gradat is located in the very heart of the Rhodope Mountains high in the mountains in Southern Bulgaria in the Smolyan Municipality, Smolyan District.
Until 1988, the village of Gradat was a hamlet to the village of Tikale, which is located about a kilometer from it.
Since the village lies between 1070 and 1100 meters above sea level, it offers a beautiful panorama in all directions, and the clean air and extremely friendly local people make the place a small Rhodope fairy tale.
A good, maintained and well-asphalted road leads to the village of Gradat. The fork to the village is located on the Republican Road II-86, leading from the eastern edge of the city of Smolyan through Srednogortsi to Rudozem.
The village is located:
256 kilometers (about 3 hours and 56 minutes by car) from the capital
110 kilometers (about 2 hours and 19 minutes by car) from the city of Plovdiv
448 kilometers (about 6 hours and 12 minutes by car) from the city of Varna
333 kilometers (about 4 hours and 20 minutes by car) from the city of Burgas
Arriving in the village of Gradat, continue along the main road you came on, winding through the entire village, all the way to its northwestern end. In this part, the road is narrower and meanders between the houses, so drive slowly. Also, look for a sign here, informing about the direction to Momchilova Fortress. The turnoff is on the right.
Be careful!
The turn is sharp, and the road ahead is very narrow. There is no visibility and it is possible that vehicles are coming from the opposite direction!
From here to the small parking lot, built north of the fortress, a very narrow but good road follows, winding in a southerly direction, about 1.5 kilometers long.
The parking lot is not very large and is located right next to the Information Center.
The hosts are wonderful people who will give you a wonderful talk and tell you some very interesting information about the fortress and about Momchilov Voivode.
Entrance fee required.
Appropriate equipment – comfortable sports shoes, as well as comfortable clothing and outerwear according to the season.
The Guardian of the Fortress
During my visit here, I was extremely surprised when, at the very peak in the middle of the grounds of Momchilova Fortress, I saw a... goat lying down.
Yes, you got it right and I'm not kidding you at all!
I'll tell you that slowly climbing to the highest point of the fortress - to the high and rocky peak, towering at 1215 meters above sea level, I didn't have the slightest idea what (or who) awaited me here.
This is a white guest, who came from unknown sources about a month, a month and a half ago. The hosts say that the goat has no owners - at least no one from the nearby village of Gradat (or the surrounding area) has shared that they are missing a goat.
So, one beautiful sunny summer day the goat appeared in the fortress, climbed to its highest point and lay down - just like that.
She is not afraid of anyone – she is a brave goat. She lies quietly – with her eyes fixed on the beauty surrounding the peak. She lies under the Bulgarian tricolor, which the wind constantly blows, resting and enjoying the views.
Her hosts bring her water and do not leave her thirsty.
Quite a few visitors came that day and they all took a souvenir photo with the goat from Momchilova Fortress.
Hurry up!
Who knows – you might see her too.
Какво може да се разгледа в близост?
На минути югозападно от село Градът се намира град Смолян.
В град Смолян ви съветвам да посетите Регионален исторически музей – Смолян.
Виден експонат в РИМ Смолян е посребрената казашка сабя на полковник Владимир Серафимов, с която той не се разделя до края на живота си.
В град Смолян може да посетите Смолянски водопад.
На 15 километра югоизточно от град Смолян (на около 27 минути с автомобил) на връх Средногорец се издига Паметникът, посветен на Двадесет и първи средногорски полк, известен като Родопската Шипка.
Съвсем наблизо се намира и село Полковник Серафимово.
В района се намират изключително красивите Смолянски езера. На 9 километра в северозападна посока (на около 14 минути с автомобил) в близост до основния път се намира езеро Лагера, известно още като Лъгът, което може да разгледате по време на престоя си тук.
Езеро Лагера е правено на язовир, отдаден през 1995 г. от общината на Ловно-рибарското дружество. Тъй като преливно-изпразнителната му част се пропуква и не позволява пълнене, то отново става езеро с площ около 7,5 – 12 хектара.
В североизточна посока от езеро Лагера се намира началото на екопътека "Трите Смолянски езера", която също ви препоръчвам да извървите по време на престоя си тук.
Тревистото езеро е разположено на 1540 метра надморска височина. Наречено е така, защото половината от площта му е покрита с еднометров торфен пласт, по чиято повърхност растат буйни треви. От тук при ясно и слънчево време се открива прекрасна гледка към Орфееви скали.
Най-високо разположеното от трите Смолянските езера е Мътното езеро. То се намира на около 1590 метра надморска височина. Дълбочината му е 4,5 метра, което го прави най-дълбокото от Смолянските езера.
На 8 километра в северна посока от град Смолян (на около 8 минути с автомобил) се намира началната стартова точка на екопътека "Невястата".
На 16 километра северно от град Смолян (на около 25 минути с автомобил) се намира връх Снежанка, върху който се издига телевизионна кула "Снежанка".
Съветвам всеки един от вас да се изкачи чрез асансьорите до върха на 156-метровата телевизионна кула, издигаща се на 2082 метра височина. От уникалното кафе-панорама, оформено на 2019 метра н.в. се разкрива феноменална 360-градусова панорама.
В южната част на подножието на върха се намира началната стартова точка на пътеката към Орфееви скали.
Само на 18 километра северозападно от град Смолян (на около 26 минути с автомобил) ще откриете мястото, където е родена родопската песен – земя, опазила автентичната родопска душа, скътана между така красивите зелени склонове на планината и край шума на реката, средище на родолюбие и познание, място, което дарява свобода, тишина, спокойствие и увереност за едно по-добро утре – Широка лъка!
В Широка лъка задължително посетете достолепния храм "Успение Богородично" – символ на вярата, издигнат за 38 денонощия.
В Широка лъка е роден екзарх Стефан I Български, ето защо аз ще ви разкажа за спасяването на българските евреи.
Само на около 8 километра южно от село Широка лъка (на около 15 минути с автомобил) ще откриете Гела – усмивката на Родопите.
В село Гела препоръчвам да си направите несравнима по красота разходка и да се удивите на величествените красоти, заобикалящи селцето.
В село Гела непременно посетете интересните руини на ранновизантийска базилика – най-високо разположената в югоизточна Европа (1480 метра н. в.).
На около 24 километра западно от село Широка лъка (на около 34 минути с автомобил) се намира началото на екопътека "Струилица", край която можете да се насладите на чудното Самодивско пръскало.
На 14 километра североизточно от ски курорта Пампорово (на около 22 минути с автомобил) се намира Националната астрономическа обсерватория "Рожен".
На разклона в посока НАО "Рожен" може да спрете и да се разходите по обширните Роженски поляни, намиращи се на 1430 метра н.в. Насред поляните се издига най-високият пилон в България, висок 111 метра, върху който се вее българският трибагреник.
На 36 километра североизточно от ски курорта Пампорово (на около 53 минути с автомобил) се намира град Лъки и началната стартова точка на екопътека "Комин дере".
В близост се издига храм "Възнесение Господне" над село Борово, община Лъки.
На 38 километра северно от ски курорта Пампорово (на около 55 минути с автомобил) се намира друго китно селце, съчетаващо тишина зеленина и родопско спокойствие – Забърдо.
Точно преди селото се намира отбивката към природна забележителност "Чудните мостове Еркюприя" – впечатляващ скален феномен в Западни Родопи!
На 44 километра североизточно от ски курорта Пампорово (на около час и 4 минути с автомобил) ще откриете поредното симпатично родопско бижу – Белица, община Лъки.
От селото стартира екопътека "Белица – Пещерата", по която ви съветвам да поемете.
На влизане в Белица ще станете свидетели на този чуден скален мост – природна забележителност "Скален мост".
Очарователният водопад Гюмбертията се намира също край красива Белица, така че посетете го и му се насладете.
На 55 километра североизточно от ски курорта Пампорово (на около 1 час и 20 минути с автомобил) ще откриете един от претендентите за най-високо разположеното село на Балканите – Манастир.
В близост се намират 604 стъпала към свободата – към връх Свобода и чудни гледки към океана от Родопи.
И като за финал, мили мои приятели,
не бива да пропускате да разгледате
специалния албум с фото моменти –
открити, изживени, заснети и споделени с вас!
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